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Home » Cookbooks » Classico e Moderno: Essential Italian Cooking

Classico e Moderno: Essential Italian Cooking

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Cookbooks
Saturday, November 16, 2013

Classico e Moderno: Essential Italian Cooking

Author: Visit Amazon's Michael White Page | Language: English | ISBN: 0345530527 | Format: EPUB

Classico e Moderno: Essential Italian Cooking Description

Review

Praise for Michael White and Classico e Moderno
 
“A masterpiece of culinary acumen and perfection in presentation . . . White once again sublimely deals with his cuisine of choice—Italian. In an attempt to bridge the gap between classic and modern, this chef extraordinaire offers the reader an experience in beauty and taste. . . . This book is a testament to both the importance/influence of Italian cuisine and to the rich and varied experiences its ingredients and tradition still have to offer.”—Publishers Weekly (starred review)
 
“Exceedingly appealing . . . [Michael White] is one of the great chefs of modern Italian food in this country, and in Classico e Moderno he teaches us enough so that we can try to follow in his footsteps.”—Vogue
 
“Hugely ambitious . . . White is one of a number of rising chefs here who aren’t Italian but have felt the freedom to refresh the concept of Italian food.”—Associated Press
 
“The future of Italian gastronomy, thanks to the spectacular inventiveness he brings to modernizing the world’s most popular cuisine.”—Gotham
 
“I’ve watched and tasted as Michael White has matured into his current position as one of the preeminent stewards and pioneers of Italian culinary tradition in America. Even his signature modern dishes are as relatable as the classics—and are perhaps even destined to be deemed classics in their own right some day.”—Thomas Keller, from the Foreword
 
“Michael White has, in very short order, grabbed the Italian food crown for New York City. He’s created some of the most exciting new dishes of the last few years at Marea, and his Osteria Morini is my go-to casual for date night. He is well in his way to ruling the world. And when that happens it will surely be a more delicious place.”—Anthony Bourdain

About the Author

Michael White, a Wisconsin native, began his award-winning culinary career at Chicago’s renowned Spiaggia and Ristorante San Domenico in Imola, Italy. After eight years in Italy he moved to New York City and partnered with Ahmass Fakahany to form the Altamarea Group, which currently owns seven restaurants, including Marea in New York City (which holds two Michelin stars and won the 2009 James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant and membership in Relais & Chateaux) and Al Molo in Hong Kong. Additional locations include the Michelin one-starred Ai Fiori, Osteria Morini in SoHo and Washington, D.C., Due Mari and Osteria Morini in New Jersey, and Nicoletta Pizzeria. The group will open three additional New York City locations in 2013. White and his recipes and restaurants are featured regularly, everywhere from The New York Times to Esquire to the Today show. Michael White lives in New York with his wife and daughter.
 
Andrew Friedman has collaborated on more than twenty cookbooks with some of America’s finest and most well-known chefs, including Alfred Portale, Michelle Bernstein, Laurent Tourondel, and former White House chef Walter Scheib, and co-authored (with American tennis player James Blake) the New York Times bestselling memoir Breaking Back. Friedman is a two-time winner of the IACP Award for Best Chef or Restaurant Cookbook, and co-editor of the popular anthology Don’t Try This at Home. He is also the author of Knives at Dawn, about the famous Bocuse d’Or culinary competition. He is founder and chief contributor to the chef-focused website Toqueland.com. He lives in Brooklyn with his family.
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  • Product Details
  • Table of Contents
  • Reviews
  • Hardcover: 448 pages
  • Publisher: Ballantine Books; 10.6.2013 edition (November 5, 2013)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0345530527
  • ISBN-13: 978-0345530523
  • Product Dimensions: 11.2 x 9.5 x 1.4 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 4.5 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
I had high hopes for this book based on a number of laudatory reviews from the press and luminaries within the industry. Overall, I thought the book was okay.

It's divided into two parts, a "classic" Italian recipes section and a "modern" recipes section which may be Italian-inspired, but which have in many cases very little that's Italian about them.

The recipes are aimed at a home chef of average skills, and I was hoping that they might be a little bit more of a restaurant grade. The modern recipes are dumbed down attempts to recreate more sophisticated dishes, but this dumbing down process has made the recipes much more lackluster than their original counterparts.

A number of the recipes omit important steps that would be necessary to make the recipes palatable. For example, there are a handful of recipes which call for razor clams, but the only preparation of the clams is that they be "scrubbed". Razor clams have a sand sack and require careful and knowledgeable cleaning to be edible. These recipes will almost certainly fail for the average home chef.

Another problem I have with the book is with the photography. There are a lot of stock photos, and the pictures for the recipes are often misleading. For example, in the modern meat recipes, most of the meats have been cooked sous vide, as evidenced by the way the pink of the meat extends all the way to the edge, where it meets with a nice sear. But none of the recipes are sous vide, and so the actual dish will look nothing like the picture. A recipe for rabbit loin wrapped in bacon gives no instruction for stretching the bacon, and instructs you to wrap the loin once, but the photo clearly shows thin-cut, stretched bacon which has been wrapped multiple times around the loin.

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